Want to embroider leather? You most certainly can – with these tips!

Tips & tricks for perfect results

Ginkgo Design -Marianne Treml Modefachschule Sigmaringen. Gunolds POLY Threads

Leather stands for sensuality, craftsmanship and tradition. It is smooth, durable and has a unique feel – characteristics that make it an exclusive base material in the advertising industry. Whether leather bags, wallets, belts or shoes: embroidery with logos, lettering or customised advertising motifs creates high-quality, unique creations. However, embroidering leather requires special know-how.

With the techniques and tricks listed as follows, you can achieve lasting, perfect results

The special features of leather

Genuine leather is a natural product and differs in structure and elasticity depending on its origin and processing. The best-known types of leather include smooth leather, where the grain side is processed as a smooth surface, and suede, where the grain side is roughened, creating a velvety feel. Both types of leather – whether cowhide, buffalo or lamb – have individual characteristics that need to be considered when embroidering.

Design- Caroline Jones with Gunolds COTTY 30

Special challenges when embroidering on leather

Leather thrives on its natural irregularities, which are part of its beauty, but also make it difficult to process. Reiner Knochel from Textile Experience therefore recommends carrying out a few embroidery tests first: ‘Not all leather is the same. Some types warp more, others can cause holes or perforations. Some, on the other hand, can be embroidered without any problems – regardless of thickness or surface structure.’ One of the biggest challenges is the risk of perforation. Too high a stitch density can weaken the leather and cause it to tear. Embroidery designs should therefore be as simple as possible. The rule here is: ‘Less is more.’

Another important aspect is the fixing of the material to be embroidered. Leather should not be clamped in conventional embroidery hoops, as pressure marks can occur. GUNOLD recommends its self-adhesive embroidery backing Filmoplast (black and white) for light to medium leather and Filmoplast Strong for stronger leather qualities. The KK 100 adhesive spray is suitable for appliqués or smaller cuts, which also enables fixing without pressure marks.

Which needle, which thread?

There are special leather needles for embroidering leather, such as the DBxK5 S from GUNOLD. This cutting needle cuts a hole in the embroidery material instead of piercing it. Alternatively, many embroiderers use a standard needle (size 75, R point = normal point for the smallest possible hole). While both needles deliver good results, the special leather needle is particularly useful for embroidering shoes and bags.

For long-lasting durability, abrasion- and tear-resistant polyester threads such as POLY 40 are ideal, as they are very robust and are available in 300 colours and 8 neon colours. For finer motifs, POLY 60 is the better choice, available in 54 colours and perfect for small lettering, for example. It is also possible to use natural products such as COTTY cotton threads

The embroidery software is also of crucial importance. To avoid perforations, a low stitch density should be ensured when digitizing the design and underlay stitches should only be used sparingly. Avoid anything with lots of needle penetrations very close together that could be likely perforate the leather.

Massimo Baezzato, owner of ConStitch, recommends an embroidery density of 0.45-0.50 depending on the thickness of the leather and a maximum embroidery speed of 800 rpm. ‘It is always advisable to do an embroidery test on a scrap piece beforehand,’ says the digitizing expert.

Alternative types of leather – and a favorite one

Design -Sabrina Reif-Modefachschule Simgaringen

In addition to genuine leather, plant-based leather alternatives such as cactus, apple or eucalyptus leather and Piñatex (pineapple fiber) are becoming increasingly important. However, there is hardly any experience to date on the longevity of embroidered designs on these materials. According to Reiner Knochel, they are also sometimes more difficult to embroider than genuine leather.

A promising alternative is olive leather – genuine cowhide or sheepskin tanned with olive leaf pomace. It contains no chromium-6 compounds, is ecologically valuable and free from toxic chemicals or dyes. In addition, olive leather produces particularly good embroidery results.

Eye-catcher with high-quality appeal

Embroidered leather stands for style, elegance and high quality – be it in the form of logos on belts, notebooks or wallets, as an elegant detail in the automotive industry or as a finishing touch for fashion, shoes or furniture. The combination of luxurious material and individual embroidery creates a special value that many people associate with exclusivity and personal style.

Gunold has put together some inspiring embroidery projects for your reference! Further information, including the materials listed, can be found at www.gunold.de

Design-Lara Krug Modefachschule Sigmaringen

Product information at a glance:

– Filmoplast (black and white) for light to medium leather is ideal for fixing light to medium-weight leather qualities at 50 g/m². Available on rolls in black and white in various widths

– Filmoplast Strong with 95 g/m² is ideal for fixing strong leather qualities. Available on a roll in black and white in various widths

– KK 100 adhesive spray is transparent, acid-free, non-toxic and virtually odorless, but flammable. Presented in cans of 500ml

– POLY 40 – robust, available in 300 colors and 8 neon colors

– POLY 60 – finer, ideal for intricate lettering, available in 54 colors

– COTTY is made from 100% long-staple, high-quality mercerized Egyptian cotton with a matt finish. COTTY is available in size 30 for more detailed applications or in size 12 for a coarser look. Available in 182 colors

– COTTY BIO – The sustainable cotton thread COTTY BIO is grown, twisted and dyed with GOTS certification. Available in ten basic colors. Available in ten basic colors.

Pictures: by Reiner Knochel, Textile Experience

Be inspired and discover the world of classy embroidery on leather!